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Rome, Travel

Tour Yourself on, Rome

Julio
Julio Balarezo
27 July 2025
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(A journey among pilgrims, poets, and dreamers, following the golden thread of the Tridente)

Rome: the pleasure of getting lost… and the gift of finding yourself again

How wonderful is it to get lost among the little streets of Rome?
It’s truly a walk filled with the pleasure of discovery: the magnetism of the unexpected wonders we stumble upon is undeniable.
However, after years of living here, I must admit that it’s even more beautiful not to get lost, but rather to know how to find yourself again, using the secret connection between squares, churches, and monuments as your guide.

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A small dive into history: the Council of Trent and the changing face of Rome
As we move from church to church like modern pilgrims, it’s worth remembering that this way of experiencing the city has deep roots in history.
After the Council of Trent (1545–1563), during the height of the Counter-Reformation, the Catholic Church decided to renew not only its doctrine but also the very face of the cities.
In Rome, this led to a vast program of construction and renovation of churches, conceived as visible instruments of faith and power.
And not only that: to lead the faithful toward these new temples of spirituality, streets were straightened and newly created, often aligning roadways directly to places of worship.
Thanks to this drive, monumental works like the Tridente were born — the perfect crossroads of faith, urban planning, and beauty — along with many of the squares we explore today.
Thus, as we walk, we unconsciously retrace the blueprint of an era that sought to guide souls… with straight roads pointing towards the heavens.
Just like the pilgrims of the past: going from church to church, walking with wonder in their eyes, much like the first “tourists” in history.

And so, let’s begin at Rome’s “gateway of gateways”: Porta Flaminia, better known today as Porta del Popolo.
As soon as you pass through it, Piazza del Popolo opens up before you with its iconic Tridente: three streets branching out like the prongs of a trident, part of a great urban project carried out in the 16th century.
Before setting off, however, take some time to explore the square: it’s full of surprises.
From walls that mysteriously carry your voice like an echo, to Caravaggio’s masterpieces housed in the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo, and even to the small but fascinating Leonardo da Vinci Experience Museum.
And of course, don’t forget that this square is still today a place for public gatherings: events, protests, and celebrations can offer you a living, authentic experience of the city.

Now, let’s talk about the Tridente.
To guide us, we’ll use a culinary metaphor: each street will represent a meal of the day — breakfast, lunch, and aperitivo/dinner.
Are you ready to experience Rome like true pilgrims… and a little bit like romantic poets and painters too?

Babuino for Breakfast

We start our journey by taking Via del Babuino, perfect for an energetic walk toward the Monti area.
Imagine yourself in the 1800s: a romantic poet, a flâneur, inspired by the old and new air of Rome.
Then return to the present and glance at the prices in the shop windows: you’re in the heart of Rome’s luxury district!

Along the way, we discover a gem: Canova Tadolini, an old sculpture studio founded in 1818, now transformed into a restaurant-museum.
Here, the tables seem like secondary guests to the majesty of the sculptures surrounding you. A magical place where art fills every corner.

Just a few more steps and here we are at Piazza di Spagna, with the famous Fountain of the Barcaccia sculpted by the Berninis and, of course, the spectacular Spanish Steps leading up to Trinità dei Monti.
A climb that is a true feast for the eyes, culminating in the panoramic view from the balconies of Trinità dei Monti, where Rome unfolds below you like an endless painting.

We continue to the right along Via Sistina, leading to Piazza Barberini, dominated by Bernini’s Triton Fountain.
Just a little further on, we find a hidden masterpiece: The Four Fountains and Borromini’s tiny but stunning church of San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane.

If we continue straight, we reach the majestic Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, one of the four papal basilicas.
Right across from it, you can enjoy a well-deserved breakfast at one of the local cafés: a cappuccino and a croissant will recharge your energy for more adventures.

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Through Monti Toward the Colosseum

From Santa Maria Maggiore, look at the map: from here, four roads radiate out toward other monuments and little squares.
We take Via Urbana to enter the Rione Monti, one of the most fascinating districts of Rome, with a rich and varied history: from ancient Roman neighborhood to medieval Jewish ghetto, and today, the beating heart of art and urban creativity.

Stroll at your leisure to Piazza della Madonna dei Monti, the “living room” of the neighborhood, and get ready: just a few steps away, the Colosseum will suddenly appear, like an ancient giant welcoming you.

The journey continues through the Imperial Forums, an emotional plunge into Ancient Rome, until you reach the imposing Altar of the Fatherland (Vittoriano).
From there, look back: you’ll see Piazza del Popolo in the distance.
Just like an invisible thread, the streets of the Tridente still connect us.

A Quick Lunch near the Corso?

If you’re feeling hungry, it’s the perfect time for lunch!
You can choose to be treated like royalty in an elegant restaurant or to live a more “authentic” experience in a typical Roman osteria, where the chatter and warmth of the locals will embrace you.

A perfect example? The historic Birreria Peroni, where the genuine atmosphere of a Roman lunch among friends is still alive today.
Don’t be surprised if, after your meal, they kindly ask you to give up the table: it’s part of the Roman ritual of “eat and move on”!

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Aperitivo in Trastevere: Bohemian for an Evening

After lunch, if you want to immerse yourself in one of the most celebrated Italian traditions, an aperitivo is a must!
And the ideal neighborhood for it is definitely Trastevere, across the Tiber River.

The path to reach it is like a dream: passing by the majestic Pantheon, the spectacular Piazza Navona, the solemn Palazzo Madama, until you arrive at the Basilica of Sant’Agostino in Campo Marzio, where you can admire Caravaggio’s famous Madonna of the Pilgrims.

This church, by the way, is visually aligned with Piazza del Popolo, showing once again how the Tridente subtly guides us without letting us get lost.

Then, cross the Tiber Island, a legendary place considered one of the very first settlements of Ancient Rome.
From there, a final short walk takes you to Trastevere, where I recommend booking a table at a typical restaurant (perhaps to enjoy a dreamy cacio e pepe or a rich amatriciana).

While waiting for dinner, with a spritz in hand — yes, in Italy it’s allowed to drink outdoors until 10 PM — enjoy a leisurely stroll among the lantern-lit alleyways.

At Piazza Trilussa, you will always find street artists, musicians, and mimes: it’s the bohemian heart of Rome, where simplicity lives side by side with ancient beauty.

Close your eyes for a moment: listen to the sounds, observe the colors, breathe in the atmosphere.
You’ll understand that, despite the centuries, nothing has changed: Rome is still that eternal crossroads of peoples, languages, dreams, and poetry.

Online fonts:
.https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urbanistica_a_Roma_tra_il_1870_e_il_2000

.https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tridente_(Roma)#:~:text=Con%20Tridente%20si%20indi.ca%2C%20a,realizzazioni%20urbanistiche%20del%20XVI%20secolo.

.https://www.pexels.com/it-it/cerca/roma%20piazza%20del%20popolo/

 

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