Have you seen the sky above Rome?

A stop to add to your Roman itinerary—less mentioned in tourist guides but definitely more local—is Monte Ciocci.
This scenic overlook sits about 50 meters above the city, in a park frequented by families and university students who gather here for a picnic, some guitar playing, or simply a beer on the steps.

The park is located in the Valle Aurelia area, it’s close to Castel Sant’Angelo, the Vatican Museums, and St. Peter’s Basilica, so a good idea would be to spend the first part of your day visiting these well-known sights, then head up to the hill at sunset to fully enjoy the golden hour while admiring Rome from above.

The write on the wall:
“Hai visto il cielo sopra Roma e hai detto quant’è bello, viettelo a vedè dall’alto.”
This is the phrase that made this spot iconic. It’s a line from the song “Il cielo su Roma” by the Roman hip-hop group Colle Der Fomento. One day it appeared as graffiti, almost by chance, and soon became the symbol of this scenic overlook. So much so that when the city cleaned the wall and removed it, locals reacted with disappointment and when someone spray-painted it back, everyone celebrated!

Google Translate might help you understand the first part of the sentence, but the second half is in Roman dialect. The full meaning is:
“You’ve seen the sky above Rome and said how beautiful it is, now come to see it from from up high .”

To be fair, this has become one of the most famous “muretti” (low walls) in Rome.
Due to its visibility, it often becomes a canvas for someone who decides to paint over the original message with their own. So don’t be surprised if you get there and the iconic phrase is missing—but rest assured, there’s always a local hero who steps in to restore the status quo and bring back the Romans’ favorite line.

The Sunset:
Monte Ciocci’s belvedere offers one of the most beautiful sunsets in Rome—though it’s a bit unconventional. It’s actually the only sunset in the city that you watch with your back to the sun!
Because of the way the viewpoint is oriented, especially in spring and summer, the sun sets proudly over a rather plain side of the city. While that in itself is still an awe-inspiring view, Romans usually sit on the steps and turn their gaze the other way—toward the city.
Why? Because the sky fills with warm shades of pink and orange as Rome unfolds beneath you like a painting. In that moment, you understand why they call it the Eternal City—it truly feels like time stands still, just like in Roma Capoccia, the beloved song by iconic Roman singer-songwriter Antonello Venditti, a true anthem to the city.

Il pizzarium:
Here a tip: pair the sunset with a top-level, internationally renowned yet truly local gastronomic experience: Bonci’s pizza!
The place is called Pizzarium and it’s located near the Cipro stop on Metro line A. The exact address is Via della Meloria, 43.
Gabriele Bonci is considered the king of Roman-style street food pizza, the “pizza al taglio”. In 2024, at the Pizza Doc Awards, he won the Absolute Excellence prize – “Awarded forrevolutionizing the concept of pizza al taglio, turning it into an extraordinary gastronomic experience.”

On the counter, you’ll find a wide variety of pizzas. It’s hard to make a list because they change constantly, both because only seasonal ingredients are used and because the chef is always researching new combinations and flavors.
Even though some of the “gourmet” pizzas are truly mouthwatering, my honest advice is to absolutely try the simpler ones: bianca, rossa, margherita, and potato pizza, because the secret to the best pizza al taglio in the world is not in the toppings, but in the dough!

How to Get There:
To reach the viewpoint, you have to climb a staircase that’s a bit hidden and definitely not well maintained. The entrance is actually behind a gas station; it’s quite steep and for most of the year, overgrown weeds take over.
Personally, though, I think this makes everything feel a bit more magical and adventurous, giving this spot that hidden gem status that makes it so special.
So don’t be discouraged, hold on tight to your pizza and climb those steps. Rome in all its beauty is waiting for you!

Excact position of the staircase: https://maps.app.goo.gl/1frDr5vAxtjaa8g58

Soundtrack for the Sunset

• Roma Capoccia – Antonello Venditti
  YouTube |
  Spotify
• Il Cielo su Roma – Colle der Fomento
  YouTube |
  Spotify